ADAPTING YOUR HENHOUSE FOR THE WINTER
The hens are extremely well adapted to withstand the cold. Better than heat, in fact. With their feathers and breathing bags, they create a warm air chamber. (Principle of thermoregulation).
In winter, it is of course necessary to protect our hens from the great cold, but it is especially the wind and the humidity which must be avoided. And this is achieved, among other things, through adequate insulation and sufficient ventilation. If your chickens are more than 18 weeks old, well feathered and belong to one of the 43 or so cold-resistant breeds, let them acclimatize to the cool temperatures in the autumn and resist your urge to heat the hen house.
Cold resistant breeds of hens
In addition to all hybrid hens, Ameraucana, Australorp, Bantam Brahma, Barnevelder, Barred Rock, Brahma, Buckeye, Buff Orpington, Chanteclerc, Cochin, Delaware, Dominica, Easter Egger, Favorelle, Hamburg, Maran, New Hampshire Red, Orpington, Rhode Island Red, Silkie Bantam (Silky), Sussex, Welsummer, Wyandotte.
Breeds of hens resistant to extreme cold
Ameraucana, Australop, Barred Plymouth, Barred Plymouth Rock Bantam, Black Coop, Black Frizzle Cochin, Black Jersey Giant, Blue Cochin, Blue Favocana, Blue Laced Red, Blue Orpington, Buckeye, Buff Brahma Bantam, Cream Legbar, Maran, Lavander Orpington, Snowy Easter Egger.
REMEMBER THAT THE AVERAGE BODY TEMPERATURE OF A CHICKEN IS HIGHER THAN HUMANS! Between 102 F and 104 F (40 – 41 celcius).
I was very reluctant to keep my chickens during the winter season. My fears, and false beliefs were holding me back from keeping them. With the right information, I realized that it’s easy to keep them and make sure they are comfortable. My chickens are cold resistant breeds among the 43 species that can survive our northern climate.
When you read about it, the debate about heating or not heating has been going on for years. Most of the experts, authors and my teachers during my courses and certifications as well as in my reading abound in the sense of not heating, and especially not creating a big difference in temperature between the inside of the hen house and the aviary or outside.
Basically, if the chicken house is of solid construction, with 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick walls the hens will withstand extreme cold without problems. But, if you want to give them more comfort, a hen house lightly insulated with styrofoam between the walls (the hens should not be able to peck the insulation) will be sufficient. There is no need to heat if the chicken house is insulated. Since it is preferable to keep water outside to avoid excess humidity, electric-based drinkers specially designed for this purpose are very practical.
Chickens do not eat or drink during the night! So don’t create humidity for nothing.
It is important to know that hens do not adapt easily to a change of environment. Moving them puts a lot of stress on them. We sometimes hear people say that in the fall they return their chickens to farms, coops or breeders. Be aware that your chickens could be under a lot of stress if they were moved to a new group without quarantine or acclimatization. Very often, those who take them back, cannot handle all these returns and have to isolate your hens in separate cages and very often they will be taken to the slaughterhouse.
In some cases, the hens will be exposed to aggressive stress in the order of the row and they risk being pecked to death, otherwise they will suffer enormous stress and see the laying stop or lose their feathers, which is not desirable just before winter! In some cases, they could be exposed to lice and disease. Therefore, it will be wise to plan your project and to plan to set up your hen house to keep your chickens in winter. Don’t forget that the demand for new laying hens is high in the spring at the hatcheries and that this pressure is increasing all the time.
The longer people keep their hens, the more supply and demand will stabilize. Because the pressure is strong in spring and summer at our Coops to provide you with good, healthy and vaccinated hens.
I understand the concern that humans have for their chickens during the winter. But it is important to understand that the physiology of chickens, like that of many bird species, is designed to allow them to withstand the cold, as long as their basic needs are met.
Cutting off the wind
Drafts and wind in the poultry house can be dangerous for the health of your chickens. On the outside of the aviary, the ideal is to staple strong, transparent plastic on each side to cut off the wind. The use of transparent corrugated panels is also practical because they are reusable year after year. Plexiglas, which is more expensive, is a stronger material and is available in different thicknesses. It can also be used to cover sections of doors or windows, for example. The important thing is not to create a greenhouse effect.
The aviary needs to breathe, so you may want to keep 5 to 10 cm of opening in the top of the screen to allow air to circulate freely. The chicken house should not be airtight, as moths and mites will more easily enter.
A high chicken house
In Quebec, with our humid and rainy climate and our harsh winters, it will be important to build your urban chicken coop at a minimum height of 50 cm to 90 cm (2 to 3 ft.) from the ground. This elevation is important not only to provide your hens with a dry hen house, but also to allow you to clean it more easily. In addition, an elevated barn will make it difficult for predators and undesirables to get in. This elevation also facilitates snow removal and access during the winter.
Electricity
You will find it very convenient to supply the henhouse with electricity. Not only to light you during your evening visits, but also to connect all sorts of useful accessories, especially for the winter: automatic door, timer, heating lamp, radio, lighting, electric water trough, fan, etc.
The ceramic lamp and its receptacle
Most of the time, during the winter, urban hens do not need heating, especially if the poultry house is insulated. If your barn is not insulated or is designed with thin materials and you are concerned about your chickens in cold weather, you may be able to improve their comfort by using a ceramic lamp or other radiant objects that provide heat, such as animal heat mats and radiant panels. However, you should be careful with these accessories, as the risk of fire is significant.
The Electric Drinker
Since the water that hens drink must not freeze during the winter, electric waterers are very practical in that they simply keep the water above freezing. To prevent the formation of an ice crust on the surface of the drinker, I advise you to put golf balls in the water circle.
ACCESSIBILITY TO THE HENHOUSE
In Quebec, we receive a few good snow falls every winter. Therefore, you will have to plan for a driveway to get to the henhouse every day. As soon as the first snowfall occurs, I recommend that you mark off the area you want to make accessible, so that you can clear the snow all winter long. The access door to the aviary and your access to the nests must be well cleared of snow for your daily cleaning. The snow that accumulates on the other three walls of the barn will serve as insulation and will form a natural protection against the elements. Make sure, however, that sunlight is always able to enter the aviary, as it is essential for egg-laying.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND STRAW BALES. MOULD AND MOISTURE ARE HARMFUL TO THE HENS. SNOW WILL ACT AS INSULATION ALL AROUND LIKE AN IGLOO.
Cute but harmful sweaters
Social media occasionally show us pictures of hens wearing small wool vests in winter. Although these images are very touching, these clothes are harmful to the chickens. Indeed, they must be able to ruffle their feathers to trap the heat close to their bodies. The wool sweaters that some people put on the hens prevent the natural thermoregulation principle, which is dangerous for them.
Below are some good accessories to have to get ready for winter!
I strongly recommend keeping them in winter, because it is possible, and contrary to popular belief, common hens are very resistant to the cold. They are even very comfortable and it only takes a few adjustments to the hen house and accessories to keep the water from freezing. It is not recommended to heat the pen itself if you are not raising chicks or fancy hens. But, if you absolutely want to heat them in very cold weather (-10 and more) a 250W ceramic lamp connected to 110V produces a nice radiant heat. Don’t turn on before it is more than -10 C! A timer will help you to manage switching on around 4:00 pm and switching off during the day around 7:00 am. There is no suitable thermostat in stores.
Even if keeping your hens in winter involves some challenges and some adaptation of your henhouse, you will have the pleasure of seeing them evolve during the cold season and still have fresh eggs every day. Laying hens are remarkable birds and capable of extraordinary adaptation. Many breeds adapt well to the cold, both through the thermoregulation process and through the various physiological changes that take place in them.
https://www.fresheggsdaily.blog/search?q=to-heat-or-not-to-heat
https://www.fresheggsdaily.blog/search?q=winterize-your-chicken-run
https://the-chicken-chick.com/surviving-winter-with-chickens/
https://www.tillysnest.com/2014/01/down-home-blog-hopnumber-69-storm-html/